The Rise of Vintage Carhartt

Even if you’re not the world’s biggest vintage connoisseur, chances are you’ve seen Carhartt’s yellow wave logo around recently. From workwear for railroad workers to making uniforms in WWI and II, Carhartt has had something of a metamorphosis into streetwear’s favourite brand – but how did it get to that point?

Carhartt has become the 'it' label in streetwear over the last few decades.

Brand Beginnings

Carhartt’s origins began way back in 1889 in a tiny Detroit studio, where they crafted their first product: the bib overalls for rail workers. From there, they expanded to outdoor wear for hunting, debuting their waterproof garments and later heavy-duty flameproof pieces. Aside from volunteering their expertise for soldier uniforms in the World Wars, Carhartt continued to be a staple for blue-collar workers, way up until the ‘80s, when its presence in streetwear began. 

Hip hop and Carhartt

The ‘80s and ‘90s saw rap legends picking up on the wardrobe of the industrial workers in their communities, donning the utilitarian pieces and starting a style revolution in the process. Hip hop icons such as Tupac, Easy-E and Nas were seen wearing the brand, partly influenced by the hip hop label, Tommy Boy. The label identified Carhartt as a bourgeoning streetwear presence and had the initiative to buy Carhartt jackets, which they embroidered their logo on in collaboration with skater brand, Stussy. Handing the proto-streetwear-collab out to some of their biggest hip hop connections, Tommy Boy helped seed Carhartt’s use in urban settings. 

It’s not hard to see why the Hip Hop community attached itself to the Carhartt aesthetic. The hardwearing, boxy cuts add bulk to a fit, and speak to a rugged, masculine look. Its use in more urban settings also had some utilitarian purposes. For example, graffiti artists took advantage of the large pockets and warmth Carhartt garments afforded during night-time outings – benefits that were equally applicable to those in more felonious professions.

In response to the growing interest from those outside of blue-collar industries, Carhartt introduced its 'Work In Progress' line in 1989. This spinoff brand catered to durable everyday wear rather than garments for industrial environments, while still maintaining the famous Carhartt practicality and quality. 

Carhartt started out purely as a workwear brand and even designed some uniforms for combat in both World Wars before becoming part of street style.

So why is vintage Carhartt on the rise? 

In much the same way that Carhartt originally came into the public eye through hip hop icons, more recently, vintage Carhartt has been adopted by today’s celebrities. Modern rap figures such as Kanye West, Drake, A$AP Rocky and A$AP Ferg have all shown favour to vintage Carhartt in recent years, as well as other celebrities such as Kaia Gerber and Harry Styles. 

As a result, vintage Carhartt pieces are rising in demand and in some cases are outpricing contemporary designs from the brand. The reasons for this may be that the vintage workwear carries a greater sense of authenticity, as the pieces are worn-in and as such, have character; lending themselves to an anti-glamour aesthetic. The likelihood of vintage Carhartt being pre-owned by tradespeople also references the origins of the brand and its down-to-earth narrative. 

Where's the best place to find vintage Carhartt in NZ?

If you want to get your hands on the original Carhartt workwear for yourself, getting it vintage is the only way to do it, as the only new Carhartt available in NZ is their modern 'Work In Progress' brand. So if your thing is authentic workwear turned streetwear, vintage Carhartt is the way to go. 

Vintage streetwear stores like magichollow often do personal sourcing trips to the centre of American vintage fashion, Los Angeles, to track down the best original Carhartt out there. You can also find imported pieces from Good ol' Vintage, or simply have a trawl through 'K Road.

Whether you love the down-to-earth, industrial narrative of the brand or its indelible association with hip hop royalty or even current Hollywood A-listers, to wear Carhartt is to wear its legacy and contribute to its ever-evolving brand story.